The Northern Adventure Series
Part 1: Northern Alberta | Dawson Creek, BC, to Cold Lake, Alberta
Part 2: Northern Saskatchewan & Manitoba | Cold Lake, Alberta, to The Pas, Manitoba
👉Part 3: Southern Saskatchewan | The Red Coat Trail (this article)
Part 4: Southern Alberta & British Columbia’s Kootenays
🎥 Video version coming soon on Trackless Lady Dee
This is the third section of my Northern Woods & Water Highway adventure across Western Canada. After crossing northern Alberta and northern Saskatchewan, I continued south to follow Saskatchewan’s historic Red Coat Trail (Highway 13) before turning west towards Alberta.
Leaving The Pas, Manitoba, behind, I turned south and eventually joined Saskatchewan’s historic Red Coat Trail, eager to discover what lay beyond the endless northern forests and canola fields.
What I expected to be the final drive home turned into one of the most memorable parts of the entire journey.
Instead of simply following Highway 13 across southern Saskatchewan, I found myself taking spontaneous detours, exploring forgotten museums, wandering through quiet prairie towns, and accepting recommendations from friendly locals who seemed genuinely excited to share their favourite places.
Travelling solo in my old Toyota RAV4 with a simple camping setup, I never knew where I would spend the night or who I might meet next. Some evenings ended beside peaceful lakes, others in small-town campgrounds, and one unforgettable night in the home of a complete stranger whose kindness reminded me why I love travelling Canada’s back roads.
This final section of my Northern Woods & Water Highway adventure follows my journey from The Pas through Manitoba and across southern Saskatchewan along the historic Red Coat Trail before eventually returning to British Columbia. Along the way, you’ll discover hidden valleys, prairie history, scenic byways, welcoming communities, and some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met on a road trip.
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path Canadian road trip filled with authentic experiences rather than crowded tourist attractions, I hope this journey inspires you to explore a part of the country that many travellers simply drive past.
Route
The Pas, Manitoba → Swan River → Kamsack → Esterhazy → Whitewood → Carlyle → Ogema → Gravelbourg → Willow Bunch → Big Muddy Valley → Eastend → Cypress Hills → British Columbia
Distance
Approximately 1,500 km (excluding side trips and detours)
Driving Time
Allow 5–8 days to fully enjoy the route, with time for museums, scenic drives, hiking trails, and unexpected discoveries.
Best Time to Visit
Late June to September
Road Conditions
Camping
Highlights
Challenges
Leaving The Pas, Manitoba, I pointed my old Toyota RAV4 south and began the final stage of my Northern Adventure. Although my destination was British Columbia, I wasn’t interested in taking the fastest route home. Instead, I wanted to follow Saskatchewan’s historic Red Coat Trail, a highway that winds through quiet prairie communities, forgotten museums, hidden valleys, and some of the friendliest towns I’ve ever visited.
The Red Coat Trail follows Highway 13 across southern Saskatchewan, tracing part of the route taken by the famous North-West Mounted Police during their historic March West of 1874. Today, it offers travellers a fascinating journey through Canada’s prairie history, where grain elevators still dominate small-town skylines, and the pace of life is refreshingly slow.
As always, I travelled with no fixed itinerary. Some mornings I knew where I wanted to go; by afternoon, a conversation with a local or an unexpected roadside attraction had completely changed my plans. Those spontaneous detours became the highlights of the journey.
The endless skies, rolling farmland, and quiet back roads reminded me that some of Canada’s greatest adventures aren’t found in famous national parks, but in the places most travellers simply drive past.
After leaving The Pas, I headed south through forests that gradually gave way to open farmland. It felt like I was leaving the remote north behind and entering a different side of the Canadian prairies.
My first stop was Swan River, a friendly community known as the Gateway to the Parkland. I parked near the Visitor Information Centre, admired the impressive swan statue surrounded by colourful flower beds, and took a short walk through the nearby park to enjoy the peaceful riverside setting before continuing my journey.
Although I didn’t stay long, Swan River made a pleasant first impression. With fuel, groceries, restaurants, and accommodation, it’s an ideal place to take a break before crossing into Saskatchewan and following the historic Red Coat Trail.
🚙 My Tip: Stop for a few minutes at the Visitor Information Centre. It’s a great place to stretch your legs, take a photo with the swan statue, and pick up local travel information before continuing west.
From here, I crossed into Saskatchewan once again, eager to see what surprises the historic Red Coat Trail had waiting for me.
Crossing back into Saskatchewan, I arrived in the friendly town of Kamsack. Instead of driving straight through, I stopped at the Visitor Information Centre, where I wandered around the attractive little park before getting back on the road.
Kamsack is also an access point to The Great Trail, Canada’s cross-country recreational trail network, making it a worthwhile stop for hikers, cyclists, and outdoor enthusiasts. With fuel, groceries, and restaurants, it has everything a road tripper needs before continuing west across the prairies.
By late afternoon, I arrived in Churchbridge, a small farming community about 45 kilometres west of Kamsack. After a long day of driving, I checked into the quiet regional campground, nestled among mature trees.
As I settled in, an Albertan couple arrived with their two-and-a-half-year-old child to pitch their tent nearby. They were in town for a wedding. Encounters like these are one of the things I enjoy most about travelling solo.
The campground’s shower building was spotless. After several hot days on the road, a long, refreshing shower felt like pure luxury. It’s funny how, when you’re travelling simply and sleeping in your car, the little comforts often become the highlights of the day.
🚙 My Tip: Saskatchewan’s regional campgrounds are often hidden gems. They’re usually quieter than the larger provincial parks, well maintained, and a great place to meet friendly locals and fellow travellers.
Continuing west, I arrived in Esterhazy, a vibrant prairie town known as the Potash Capital of the World. Instead of driving straight through, I spent about an hour exploring the Historical Park, where a local barbecue was in full swing, giving the place a welcoming community atmosphere.
The highlight for me was the Esterhazy Flour Mill National Historic Site, the only remaining fully equipped wood-frame flour mill and grain elevator combination in Saskatchewan. Nearby, I wandered through the Saskatchewan Potash Interpretive Centre and learned how potash mining has shaped both the town and the province. The old railway caboose on display was another reminder of how important the railway once was to transporting grain and supplies across the prairies.
I enjoyed stretching my legs before getting back on the road. Stops like this are a great reminder that some of Saskatchewan’s most interesting attractions are found in its small towns rather than its cities.
🚙 My Tip: Allow at least an hour to explore the Historical Park. It’s a fascinating stop if you’re interested in prairie history, agriculture, or Saskatchewan’s mining heritage.
I rolled into Whitewood late in the morning with my fuel gauge hovering close to empty. While filling up at the gas station, I met one of those unforgettable characters who seem to appear only on road trips.
George, a bearded fellow driving a rusty old van that looked as though it had seen better days, struck up a conversation. Friendly and full of stories, he gave me a glimpse into his fascinating life before telling me about his museum and Hidden Village, just off Highway 1. Before we said goodbye, he handed me a clipping from the local newspaper, The World-Spectator, and encouraged me to visit.
George also insisted that I shouldn’t miss driving Highway 247 through the beautiful Qu’Appelle Valley to Round Lake.
At the time, I decided to keep moving and didn’t visit his museum. Later, after reading the newspaper article, I realized what an extraordinary place I had missed. It’s one of my few travel regrets and a good excuse to return to Saskatchewan one day.
I did, however, follow George’s second piece of advice and turned off towards Crooked Lake and the Qu’Appelle Valley—a detour that turned out to be one of the highlights of my journey.
🚙 My Tip: If you’re passing through Whitewood, make time to visit George’s Museum and Hidden Village. Missing it remains one of my biggest travel regrets—and one more reason for me to return to Saskatchewan.
George’s recommendation turned out to be too tempting to ignore.
Instead of continuing south, I backtracked to follow Highway 247 towards Round Lake and Crooked Lake through the beautiful Qu’Appelle Valley. It was one of those spontaneous detours that reminds me why I rarely stick to a rigid itinerary.
The road wound through rolling hills in every shade of green, a striking contrast to the wide-open prairie I had been driving through all morning. Resorts dotted the lakeshore, and I stopped several times at viewpoints to admire the breathtaking landscape. It was difficult to believe this was still Saskatchewan.
After passing Melville Beach, I continued south on Highway 47 towards Stoughton.
Back on Highway 1 for a short while, I soon turned onto Highway 47, another quiet prairie road. Although designated as a highway, much of it was gravel, which suited me just fine. Black cattle grazed peacefully in vast fields beneath giant wind turbines, creating another classic Saskatchewan scene.
When I reached the junction with Highway 48, a sign warned that the road ahead continued for another 70 kilometres of gravel through First Nations land. My GPS wasn’t impressed and kept trying to reroute me, so I decided to take the longer route via Kenosee Lake before continuing to Carlyle.
Sometimes the best road trips don’t go exactly as planned.
If you have an extra day, stop at Moose Mountain Provincial Park, on the way south towards Carlyle on Highway 9. One of Saskatchewan’s oldest provincial parks, it’s known for its forests, hiking trails, Kenosee Lake, abundant wildlife, and excellent camping.
Arriving in Carlyle, I was excited to officially join Saskatchewan’s historic Red Coat Trail (Highway 13), a route I had been looking forward to driving ever since planning this prairie adventure.
My first stop was the Co-op gas station, where I filled up the RAV4 before asking if I could spend the night in the parking lot. The answer was an immediate “yes”—there was plenty of room at the back with the truckers and even a great Internet connection.
While looking around, I struck up a conversation with a local couple. Instead of staying at the Co-op, they suggested I drive another 40 kilometres west to the small campground in Stoughton.
I’m glad I took their advice.
The campground was quiet and had everything I needed—a water tap, electricity, washrooms, and, best of all, a hot shower. After cooking a simple one-pot meal on my single-burner stove, I settled into my little RAV4 camper and enjoyed another peaceful night on the road. The campground fee was only $10, although nobody came by to collect it.
The next morning, I watched a homeless man quietly collecting returnable bottles from the recycling bins before continuing west along the Red Coat Trail.
🚙 My Tip: Don’t hesitate to ask locals for camping suggestions. Some of my favourite overnight stops came from conversations at gas stations rather than campground apps.
Years before this trip, I had read about Ogema in travel magazines because of its historic railway. Although I didn’t see the famous Southern Prairie Railway train during my visit, I discovered something even better.
Instead of stopping at the railway station, I drove to the Deep South Pioneer Museum. I arrived before opening time and waited for the caretaker to unlock the gate. There were no crowds or tour buses—I was the first and only visitor that morning.
The museum turned out to be one of the highlights of my journey. Spread over ten acres, it features more than thirty historic buildings filled with pioneer artifacts, offering a fascinating glimpse into life on the southern Saskatchewan prairies. Wandering through the quiet village felt like stepping back in time.
🚙 My Tip: Allow at least an hour to explore the Deep South Pioneer Museum. It’s one of Saskatchewan’s hidden gems and well worth the stop.
Leaving Ogema behind, I had the road almost entirely to myself. Endless shades of green and yellow stretched across the prairie, broken only by old abandoned wooden buildings that seemed to have been standing alone in the fields for generations. Dozens of wind turbines turned slowly beneath Saskatchewan’s enormous sky, while the uneven road rolled up and down like a gentle roller coaster.
I stopped in Assiniboia to fill up with fuel before continuing. I didn’t spend much time there, eager to reach Gravelbourg. I later learned from my new friend Shirley that Assiniboia is considered one of the nicest and safest communities in southern Saskatchewan. Looking back, I wish I had allowed more time to explore.
Instead of following Highway 13, I turned north towards Gravelbourg, curious to discover one of Saskatchewan’s most unique prairie towns.
Gravelbourg immediately felt different from every other town I had visited on this trip. With its handsome brick buildings, wide streets, and unmistakable French heritage, it almost felt as though I had stepped into a small European village in the middle of the Saskatchewan prairie.
Unfortunately, the magnificent Notre Dame de l’Assomption Co-Cathedral was closed because of a funeral, so I wandered through town instead. While passing Café Paris, I met Shirley, who was walking out with an ice cream cone.
“Don’t buy one here,” she laughed. “I’ll show you a better place.”
Instead, our conversation turned to camping. When I asked if she knew of a nearby campground, she told me about Thompson Lake Regional Park, where she was staying, and simply said, “Follow me.”
So I did.
The award-winning regional park was much larger than I expected, with permanent campsites, tenting areas, a marina, golf course, swimming pool, and families getting around on golf carts. After paying my $15 day pass, I parked beside Shirley’s place. Shirley wasn’t just recommending a campground—she was taking me to what she considered her summer home.
That evening became one of the highlights of my entire prairie journey. Shirley invited me to join her family for dinner, where I enjoyed delicious spare ribs, fresh vegetables from the Hattereits’ garden, and wonderful conversation. Afterwards, she gave me a tour of the park in her golf cart with her little dog happily riding along.
Instead of sleeping in my RAV4, I was invited to spend the night on the fold-out couch in Shirley’s outdoor kitchen and use the facilities in her trailer.
It was another beautiful reminder that some of the greatest rewards of solo travel aren’t places at all—they’re the kindness of complete strangers.
🚙 My Tip: If you’re travelling through southern Saskatchewan, consider spending a night at Thompson Lake Regional Park. It’s a beautiful campground, but it’s the friendly prairie hospitality you may remember most.
The next morning I returned briefly to Gravelbourg, hoping the cathedral might be open, but it wasn’t meant to be. After another walk through town and a quick fuel stop in Assiniboia, I continued towards Willow Bunch.
The impressive former convent that now houses the Willow Bunch Museum is visible long before reaching town. Inside, I met Linda, who had moved from British Columbia a few years earlier and immediately made me feel welcome.
She introduced me to the remarkable story of Édouard Beaupré, the famous prairie giant who grew to over 2.5 metres (8 feet 3 inches) tall. Long after leaving Willow Bunch, I found myself thinking about his extraordinary life.
Another exhibit told the story of Sitting Bull, who sought refuge near Willow Bunch after the Battle of the Little Bighorn before eventually returning to the United States. I hadn’t expected to discover so much fascinating history in such a small prairie community.
Before leaving town, one final surprise caught my attention—a house for sale for just $99,000 with a huge backyard. Coming from British Columbia, I could hardly believe the price.
🚙 My Tip: Don’t drive through Willow Bunch without visiting the museum. Linda and the fascinating stories she shares make this one of the most memorable stops along the Red Coat Trail.
Leaving Willow Bunch, I headed south to Highway 18, Saskatchewan’s Heartland Heritage Highway. This route follows the province’s southern edge through a landscape shaped by glaciers, ranching history, and endless prairie skies.
The drive itself was unforgettable. The narrow highway climbed and dipped over rolling hills, with hardly another vehicle in sight. Every rise revealed another postcard scene of golden grasslands, grazing cattle, distant farmhouses, and enormous skies stretching to the horizon.
My first stop was Coronach, where, for a change, the Visitor Information Centre was actually open. I learned about guided tours into the spectacular Big Muddy Badlands, one of Saskatchewan’s hidden treasures. It sounded fascinating, but the tours didn’t fit my schedule, so I reluctantly continued east.
Another reason to come back.
Rockglen made for a pleasant coffee stop before I continued through more rolling ranch country towards Grasslands National Park. Curious, I briefly turned onto the gravel road leading into the park’s East Block, but with little fuel left and no idea how far it was to the campground, common sense won. I turned around and decided to save the park for the following day.
By the time I reached Mankota, I was exhausted.
The small campground was exactly what I needed for the night. The self-registration envelopes were old and stuck together, and after squeezing fifteen dollars in coins inside, I discovered the envelope no longer fit through the payment slot.
The next morning brought one of those unexpected encounters that make solo travel so rewarding.
Across the street, I met Rosemarie, who was tending her beautiful garden. She happily showed me around, told me about life in this community of only about 150 people, and pointed out a house for sale—for just $25,000. Coming from British Columbia, I could hardly believe it.
Before I left, she filled a bag with fresh onions, potatoes, peppers, and greens from her garden.
I handed her my overstuffed campground payment envelope, and we both laughed.
By now I had stopped being surprised by Saskatchewan hospitality. Everywhere I went, strangers welcomed me, shared stories, and pointed me towards places I would never have found on my own.
🚙 My Tip: Don’t rush through Saskatchewan’s small towns. Some of the warmest memories come from conversations you never expected to have.
Sixty-seven kilometres later, I arrived in Val Marie, the gateway to Grasslands National Park. After collecting maps and advice at the Visitor Centre, I realized I had already driven past the park entrance and had to backtrack.
It was worth every kilometre.
Seven scenic viewpoints overlook the spectacular Frenchman Valley, each with interpretive panels and short walking trails. I explored several of them despite the intense summer heat, while curious prairie dogs popped up from their burrows all around me.
Grasslands National Park is unlike anywhere else in Canada. There are no forests or mountain peaks—only endless native prairie, sweeping valleys, roaming bison, rattlesnakes, and some of Canada’s darkest night skies.
By the time I reached the Frenchman Valley campground, the temperature was simply too hot for camping. If I return, it will be in spring or autumn, when hiking is far more enjoyable.
🚙 My Tip: Carry plenty of water, fuel up beforehand, and don’t underestimate the summer heat. This is true prairie wilderness.
That evening I drove north towards the Red Coat Trail before stopping at a simple highway turnout near the junction of Highways 13 and 37.
Dinner consisted of the fresh vegetables Rosemarie had given me that morning. Unfortunately, they also came with dozens of tiny white insects that proved remarkably difficult to remove with my minimalist camping gear.
Even at seven o’clock it was still 29°C.
The next morning I rolled into Shaunavon just after sunrise. Its broad main street, lined with historic buildings, still reflects the days when horses and wagons dominated prairie life.
Most businesses were still closed, so I wandered through town before waiting for the local coffee shop to open. My cappuccino came in a paper cup, and before long another local sat down beside me. Once again, a simple coffee stop turned into another enjoyable prairie conversation.
After topping up with fuel at the Co-op, I continued west.
Eastend was one place I definitely didn’t want to miss.
I arrived before the T. rex Discovery Centre opened, giving me time to stroll through the riverside park and follow the interpretive trail across the grasslands.
Inside, I watched a fascinating film explaining how paleontologists excavate and preserve dinosaur fossils before exploring the exhibits dedicated to Scotty, the world’s largest known Tyrannosaurus rex, discovered nearby in 1991.
Before leaving, I bought a polished stone for my grandson Jason in Switzerland—a small souvenir from one of the most remarkable places on my prairie journey.
Outside town, the rolling hills surrounding Eastend were every bit as impressive as the museum itself. Looking across the Frenchman River Valley, I understood why so many travellers fall in love with this corner of Saskatchewan.
Shortly after Eastend, I left the Red Coat Trail and continued west towards Maple Creek. Along the way I stopped briefly at the Centre Block entrance of Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park. A long queue of vehicles was waiting to enter, and since I only wanted to drive through the park rather than spend the day there, I decided to turn around.
The scenery was changing once again. After days of open prairie, trees began lining the road, and patches of forest appeared on the horizon. It felt like I was slowly leaving the grasslands behind.
Maple Creek was a lively little town with a distinct western character. Historic buildings lined the streets, mature trees shaded the avenues, and there was more activity than I had seen in many of the small prairie communities.
I treated myself to what was advertised as a small ice cream at the local candy store. It turned out to be enormous—and well worth the five dollars.
Curious about the local real estate, I even stopped to look at a house that was advertised for sale. Freshly painted white with a huge backyard, it cost around $190,000. Coming from British Columbia, I couldn’t help imagining what life in this friendly prairie town might be like.
After finishing my ice cream in the little park, I stopped at the Co-op for fuel and continued west.
🚙 My Tip: Maple Creek is a great place to take a break, stock up on supplies, and enjoy one of the local cafés or ice cream shops before continuing towards Cypress Hills.
That evening, I reached the Walsh Visitor Centre, where overnight parking for up to twelve hours was permitted. Surrounded by trees and picnic tables, it was a peaceful place to spend the night despite the nearby railway line.
Originally, I had planned to visit Fort Walsh National Historic Site, the official western end of Saskatchewan’s historic Red Coat Trail. Located within the Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, Fort Walsh tells the story of the North-West Mounted Police and the early days of western Canada.
But after several weeks on the road, I could feel the travel fatigue catching up with me.
Sometimes, the best travel decision is knowing when not to push yourself.
Fort Walsh will still be there the next time I return.
As I continued west towards Alberta, I realized my prairie adventure was coming to an end.
Over the past weeks, I had travelled thousands of kilometres through northern forests, endless canola fields, rolling ranch country, hidden museums, tiny prairie towns, and some of Canada’s most remote highways. I had slept in my little RAV4 camper beside rivers, in regional parks, behind gas stations, and in quiet campgrounds where strangers quickly became friends.
The landscapes were unforgettable, but it is the people I will remember most.
George in Whitewood encouraged me to explore places I would otherwise have driven past. Shirley welcomed me into her summer home at Thompson Lake. Rosemarie shared vegetables from her garden in Mankota. Linda brought the remarkable history of Willow Bunch to life.
Once again, travelling solo proved that you are never really alone.
Southern Saskatchewan surprised me in every possible way. I arrived expecting endless prairie roads. I left with wonderful memories, new friendships, and plenty of reasons to come back.
From Milk River, I turned west towards the Rocky Mountains. My prairie journey had come to an end—but another adventure was just beginning.
➡️ NEXT: Road Trip Home through Alberta’s Cypress Hills and British Columbia’s Kootenays
Need accommodation, tours, or transportation for your journey?
| Solo Journey across Northern Alberta | Saskatchewan Trip Planner |
| Top Road Trips in Western Canada | Travel Guides to Hidden Gems |
| Road Trip Planner for the Wilderness | RAV4 Camper Conversion |
Some links in this post are affiliate links. If you use them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Yrene lives in the Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada, and is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and has travelled the world. Yes, that's me, an Entrepreneur, wilderness nut and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places. I write about things I love. Mostely.
1 Comment
Margaret
Wow lady…you get around!