Take Meadow Lake to Dog Creek Road from Clinton to Williams Lake for a wilderness adventure on dusty roads, with historic ranches, volcanic cliffs, deep canyons, hoodoos and a Second World War Aerodrome.
If you’re looking for an alternative route off Highway 97 when travelling from Clinton to Williams Lake, the Meadow Lake Road to Dog Creek Road is your option. Most of the road is gravel with some steep grades and sharp curves. The route takes you from lush forests and steep mountains, through deserts with deep river canyons and large plateaus to rolling grassland and wetlands.
Destination Markings on the map are approximate. This also counts for directions and km markings in the article. Please map the trip out yourself and plan accordingly.
Meadow Lake Road starts approximately 17 km north of Clinton, British Columbia, on Highway 97 heading northwest. Here I am, having the road for myself. The road must have been grated shortly before my drive and was in good condition. Taking this backcountry route in wet weather or in winter would be a different story. The sky was deep blue when l left Clinton on a hot day in July.
My first stop was the BC Recreation Site at Beaverdam Lake, 10 km from Highway 97. It’s a large grassy area with a superb view of the mountains across the lake. There are eight tables with firepits and an outhouse, no other services and, no fee. Only two campsites were taken.
I cooked a stirfry on my one-burner camp stove to use up my veggies before they rot from the heat. No, I don’t have a plugin coolbox.
With the wind blowing I used the firepit to protect the stove from the wind. By 10 pm the wind stopped and the sun faded behind the hills.
They haven’t bothered me so far despite being right on the water. I often get asked how I deal with the blood-sucking insects. First, I’m used to having mosquitoes around and don’t freak out. I don’t eat much sugar, take Vitamine B12 and garlic which seems to help me that they don’t attack me too much. Eat citrus fruit, mosquitoes don’t like them.
At night, I attach netting to my car windows to keep them out and I wear long pants and shirts or a mosquito jacket if they bother me outside. To bring good old mosquito coils along is a must, plus bug spray, of course. Hot sun and wind keep them at bay. Don’t let them spoil your trip!
Please pack out your garbage, including the dirty toilet paper if you pee in the grassy area or the bush. Bring small plastic bags and pick them up behind you to keep the places beautiful and free, for others to enjoy. Unfortunately, wherever I go, I see toilet paper on the ground, even next to outhouses.
The temperature started to rise when I got out of my RAV4 in the morning after a good night’s sleep. After my usual morning camp routine, I was on the road again early. The road continues northwest passing Alberta Lake near km 20 to the right.
At the km 25 Junction, I stayed straight on Meadow Lake Road. Meadow Lake is on the left near km 27, and I passed White Lake on the left near km 36.
At a major junction near km 39, I followed the sign towards Canoe Creek and Gang Ranch. The road to the right provides rough access to Dog Creek and links to Enterprise Road back to Highway 97) and at km 42, Long Lake was on the left. Further along, I noticed a large powerline transmission corridor.
At km 45, a signpost at the junction tells it all. To the northwest are Gang Ranch (41 km), and Empire Valley (55 km), to the southeast are Meadow Lake (19 km) and Clinton( 62 km) and to the south are Jesmond Post Office (20 km), Big Bar Ferry (39 km) Kelly Lake (59 km) and Clinton (72 km)
Canoe Creek community near km 60 is where I asked a man working in the field for directions. Keep straight up the hill on Dog Creek/ Canoe Creek Road. It is all First Nations land and the sign says private property, but the road is open to the public.
Soon I entered the grassland landscapes of the Fraser River. The panoramic view near km 65 is spectacular. You get an idea about the size of the Gang Ranch cattle country as it reaches as far as you can see. Sagebrush and prickly pear cacti cover lots of the landscape, I can imagine the fragrance of wet sage after rain.
The rough, semi-desert terrain at the confluence of the Chilcotin and Fraser Rivers is an important wildlife sanctuary. I crossed a landscape of wind-carved hoodoos, deep canyons, sagebrush, scrub pine and Douglas fir. The area is home to California bighorn sheep.
Near km 79, the steep road along the canyon down to a suspension bridge across the Fraser River is the primary access to the world-famous Gang Ranch.
Thaddeus Haper established the Gang Ranch in 1883. He and his brother Jerome came to British Columbia in the early days of the gold rush, driving cattle up from the United States. Jerome Harper’s brand JH brand, is one of the oldest still in use in British Columbia. Many books are on the market about the Gang Ranch’s turbulent history. Read more about the Gang Ranch
I skipped the detour to the Gang Ranch and Empire Valley and followed the road to Williams Lake instead. The road was cut along the side wall of the canyon with hairpin turns, each offering views more spectacular than the last. The dusty trail crosses cattle guards and winds northward, passing red lava cliffs deposited countless centuries ago.
Driving across the barren landscape, I couldn’t believe my eyes. On my right, I noticed a large vegetable garden and stopped abruptly.
Three people bent down working between the plants. The friendly First Nations woman came to the fence and introduced herself as Joys. She told me about the onions and chard they are growing and how they bring them to the Williams Lake Farmers Market. A long drive each Friday. She insisted on giving me a bunch of green onions and a few chard leaves to take along.
The dusty river trail started to descend, and soon lush green fields appeared below. What a contrast to the desert landscape a while back. Dog Creek (km 87), a landscape of plateaus, valleys, fertile fields and arid land with ranches and agriculture, was a pleasant surprise
Huge volcanic boulders mark the landscape north of Dog Creek Valley. The road kept climbing above the Fraser Canyon. Ditches in a field mark the historic location of the Second World War RCAF Aerodrome Dog Creek. It was established as an inland defence should the Japanese attack the BC coast
Soon, the road turned away from the Fraser River as it followed Alkali Creek upstream.
The Riedermann Wildlife Sanctuary on Alkali Lake (km 118) was established to protect the nesting ground of the white pelican. Stopping along the lake, I watched three birds sliding along the lake shore. An older local man on an ATV was parked at the lake, looking for berries. We had a quick, friendly chat before I was on my way again.
A short distance beyond marshy Alkali Lake, I noticed the red building of Alkali Lake Ranch, established in 1858. Alkali Lake Ranch claims to be the oldest ranch in British Columbia. It served as a roadhouse for travellers during the early years of the gold rush.
I didn’t stop at the ranch, but found out later that they had a store I could have browsed through, and maybe I could have learned more about the area and the Esket Rodeo.
Halfway between Alkali Lake village and Williams Lake, I passed the community of Springhouse. A small airstrip, a floatplane base and paved roads told me I was back in modern civilization, for the first time since leaving Clinton.
Chimney Lake Road (km 160) seemed a worthwhile detour with a few Recreation Sites. I stopped at the Forest Service Recreation Sites at Brunson Lake (4 km to the south), Felker Lake and Chimney Lake (19 km). Unfortunately, the places were pretty crowded, which is no surprise, close to Williams Lake.
Chimney Lake Road continues south to Enterprise Road, and then you’re a short way to Highway 97. I turned back to where I came from. to continue on Dog Creek Road.
At the junction of Dog Creek Road and Highway 20, the road branches east to Williams Lake, and it’s 2.5 km to Highway 97. Heading west, you’ll be at the start of the road to Bella Coola.
Williams Lake comes into view on the final descent to the junction of Dog Creek Road and Highway 20. Head west, and you will be on the start of the road to Bella Coola. Head east, and you will be in the heart of Williams Lake.
Williams Lake is The End of the Meadow Lake to Dog Creek Backroad Adventure. Stop in at the extraordinary Tourism Discovery Centre at the south entrance to the city. Find out what Williams Lake and the region have to offer. You might also like my road trip collection.
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Yrene lives in the Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada, and is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and has travelled the world. Yes, that's me, an Entrepreneur, wilderness nut and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places. I write about things I love. Mostely.
1 Comment
John doe
Watch out for the crooked red light on Oliver St. It only gives the first car time to go through on the green.
I was right behind him; it went yellow, then red just as I was in the process of going through. 5 seconds of green, then just 2 seconds yellow! And then bang, you’re crossing on a red! What a way to screw tourists and make money! At the cost of their insurance increases!